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Moisture & Structural Integrity

Storm Water Control

Site retains, infiltrates, or treats stormwater on-site — rain gardens, permeable surfaces, cisterns.

Storm Water Control (placeholder seal) SWC PLACEHOLDER

Description

The Storm Water Control badge recognizes projects that retain, infiltrate, or treat stormwater on-site rather than discharging it to the municipal storm sewer. The badge sits within the Moisture pillar because effective stormwater control protects the home's foundation and the surrounding site equally — the same rain that erodes a slope is the rain that ends up in a basement.

Earning the badge requires moving meaningfully beyond the Moisture-pillar baseline of gutters and grading: green infrastructure (rain gardens, bioswales, dry wells), permeable surfaces, and/or cisterns sized to capture the design storm. The result is an improved water balance — more infiltration into the local water table, less peak flow into the storm sewer, less downstream flood risk.

Required standard requirements

To earn this badge, the project must meet all of the following existing GreenStar requirements:

Additional badge criteria

Beyond the required standard requirements above, the project must also satisfy:

Design storm capture

  1. 01.

    Site is designed to retain or infiltrate the first 1 inch of rainfall on impervious surfaces — captured volume calculated as: (impervious area in sq ft × 1 inch ÷ 12) ÷ 7.48 = required storage in gallons.

  2. 02.

    OR the project meets the local stormwater management ordinance's "green infrastructure first" or "low impact development" pathway, whichever is more stringent.

  3. 03.

    Existing-home renovation pathway: at least 50% reduction in net stormwater discharge from the site, measured pre/post by impervious-area change or modeled in a tool such as EPA's National Stormwater Calculator.

Acceptable practices

  1. 01.

    Bioretention / rain gardens sized at ~5–10% of contributing impervious area, with native plants suited to alternating wet/dry conditions.

  2. 02.

    Permeable paving (pavers, porous concrete, porous asphalt) on driveways, patios, and walkways — counted as pervious in the design-storm calculation.

  3. 03.

    Rainwater cisterns (above- or below-grade) sized for the design storm and either irrigation-discharged or used for non-potable indoor uses (toilet flushing, laundry — local code dependent).

  4. 04.

    Dry wells or infiltration trenches for downspout discharge, sized using local infiltration rate (perc test required where soils are clay-heavy).

  5. 05.

    Vegetated swales, dry creek beds, and stepped check-dams where slope and area permit.

  6. 06.

    Green roofs or roof gardens — counted as impervious area reduction equal to the modeled retention coefficient (typically 0.4–0.7).

Site-specific requirements

  1. 01.

    No discharge of captured stormwater within 10 ft of the foundation or onto adjacent properties.

  2. 02.

    Sediment forebay or pre-treatment required for cisterns and infiltration features receiving runoff from parking or driveway surfaces.

  3. 03.

    Where greywater or rainwater is reused indoors, system must meet the same plumbing-code requirements as for the Zero Water Capable badge.

Documentation

  1. 01.

    Stormwater management plan showing impervious areas, drainage paths, design-storm calculation, and each retention/infiltration feature with sizing.

  2. 02.

    EPA National Stormwater Calculator output (or equivalent local model) showing pre- and post-development runoff volumes.

  3. 03.

    Soil infiltration / percolation test results for sites relying on dry wells or infiltration trenches.

  4. 04.

    As-built photos of installed features at completion.

Verification by tier

Evidence the project team submits at each certification tier. Cumulative — higher tiers include everything below unless noted otherwise.

  1. Certified

    Self-attestation
    • 01.

      Stormwater management plan showing impervious areas, drainage paths, design-storm calculation, and each retention/infiltration feature with sizing.

  2. Silver

    Documents + photos
    • 01.

      EPA National Stormwater Calculator output (or equivalent local model) showing pre- and post-development runoff volumes.

    • 02.

      Plant list for any bioretention areas; cut sheets for permeable paving or cisterns.

  3. Gold

    Third-party test
    • 01.

      Soil infiltration / percolation test results for sites relying on dry wells or infiltration trenches.

    • 02.

      On-site verification by a civil engineer or landscape architect at substantial completion + as-built photos of every installed feature.

  4. Platinum

    Post-occupancy verification
    • 01.

      Post-completion observation log demonstrating the system functioned through at least one design-storm event (or photo + rainfall record after a qualifying storm) within the first 24 months.

Gutters drain water well away from the foundation — OR site has well-draining sandy soils verified per USDA classification.

Scope

Roof drainage system — gutters, downspouts, splash blocks, and the ground area where roof water terminates.

Requirements

Choose one path

  1. 01.

    Standard path: install gutters that fully capture roof runoff, with downspouts that discharge a minimum of 4 feet from the foundation (extended via splash blocks, underground drains, or extensions).

  2. 02.

    Soil exemption: site has well-draining sandy soils (USDA classification: sand, loamy sand, sandy loam) verified by a soil test or USDA Web Soil Survey lookup. In this case gutters are optional.

Documentation

Evidence the inspector / Institute will need.

  1. 01.

    Photos of installed gutters + downspouts + termination points.

  2. 02.

    OR (soil exemption): USDA Web Soil Survey report for the project parcel showing eligible sandy soil classification.

Guidance

Why downspout extensions matter so much

A 1-inch rainfall on a 2000 sf roof produces 1,200 gallons of water. If that volume drops within 1 foot of the foundation, it saturates the soil there, raises hydrostatic pressure on the foundation wall, and over years pushes water into the basement. 4-foot downspout extensions are the single cheapest fix for basement leaks — $5-$30 per downspout.

Resources

Note

In tight urban sites where 4-foot extensions aren't feasible, underground PVC drain to a daylight termination or dry well is acceptable. Sump pump discharge does not count — that's water already inside the building.

Grading slopes away from the home — or french drains are installed (new construction).

Scope

Site grading and subsurface drainage in new construction projects.

Requirements

Choose one path

  1. 01.

    Grading path: site must be graded to slope away from the foundation at a minimum of 6 inches over the first 10 feet (6% slope), continuing to drop at least 2% beyond that.

  2. 02.

    French drain path: where grading is constrained (urban sites, retaining walls, sloped lots), install a perimeter French drain at the foundation footing depth, connected to a daylight termination, dry well, or storm sewer.

Documentation

Evidence the inspector / Institute will need.

  1. 01.

    Civil/grading plan stamped by the project engineer showing the slope profile.

  2. 02.

    OR French drain detail drawing + photos of installation before backfill.

Guidance

Why the 6/10 rule

IRC R401.3 specifies the 6"/10ft (6%) minimum positive grade away from foundations. Below that slope, surface water sheets toward the foundation during heavy rain and saturates the perimeter soil. Above 6%, the slope is steep enough that water consistently drains away even on saturated ground.

Note

On urban infill lots where positive grading is impossible (e.g. neighbor's lot drops toward yours), French drains combined with a sump pump (interior or exterior) become the only practical solution. Plan for the sump pump in the electrical load at the climate-risk assessment stage.

Inspect roof condition, flashing, gutters, siding, ground slope, basement moisture (meter), and visible mold/mildew. Repair findings.

Scope

The entire dwelling envelope and grounds — roof, flashing, gutters, siding, foundation, basement/crawlspace, around plumbing penetrations, and visible interior surfaces.

Requirements

Inspection checklist

  1. 01.

    Inspect roof condition: missing/damaged shingles, exposed nails, sealant failures around penetrations (vents, chimneys, skylights).

  2. 02.

    Inspect flashing: chimney, skylight, dormer, kickout/step flashing at roof-wall intersections.

  3. 03.

    Inspect siding: cracks, sealant failures around windows and doors, weep holes clear (for brick veneer).

  4. 04.

    Inspect ground slope around the foundation: must drop at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet (6% slope) away from the building.

  5. 05.

    Use a moisture meter on basement walls, crawlspace, and any area showing past water staining.

  6. 06.

    Visually inspect for active mold, mildew, or water staining throughout the dwelling.

  7. 07.

    Document any findings; address all active leaks or moisture issues before certification.

Documentation

Evidence the inspector / Institute will need.

  1. 01.

    Inspector's moisture/leak assessment report with photos of each inspection point.

  2. 02.

    Moisture meter readings (basement, crawlspace, any wet area).

  3. 03.

    Repair documentation for any findings — receipts, photos, contractor sign-off.

Guidance

Why this is the most consequential single check

Water intrusion is the #1 cause of premature building failure. A small unaddressed roof or flashing leak can rot framing, feed mold, ruin insulation, and corrode metal connectors within 1-3 years. The full envelope inspection at certification catches these before they become structural.

Common findings + what they cost to fix

Failed kickout flashing at the roof-wall junction (~$200-$500 to repair, prevents thousands in wall rot). Clogged gutters or downspouts dumping water at the foundation ($100-$300 to clear/extend). Negative grade (soil sloping toward house) — $500-$2,000 to regrade.

Note

A moisture meter ($30-$100) gives quantitative readings. Pin meters insert into the material; pinless meters use electrical capacitance. For walls and trim, pinless is non-destructive and good for screening; pin meters give the most accurate reading at depth.